Monday morning, August 31:
By the way, what are Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks? There's
a geological region called the Colorado
Plateau, which takes up a big chunk of the "Four Corners"
states: Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Arizona. This plateau has the
greatest concentration of national parks in the United States.
Scientists say that the region was once flat land, was then pushed up
by tectonic activity, then slowly eroded over millions of years.
Bryce Canyon wasn't eroded that much, so it's still near the top of
where the plateau originally was. Zion has been eroded more, so it's
at a lower elevation and exposes lower geological formations than
Bryce does. The Grand Canyon is the lowest level, exposing even lower
geological formations. This reduction in geological layers across the
three national parks is referred to as The Grand Staircase.
Bryce
is known for red Navajo sandstone, striking in color. It's also known
for "hoodoos," the name given to pillars of rock that are
left standing. Native Americans believed that they were people who
had been turned to rock.
I woke up and went for a shower.
Typically, state parks have nice shower facilities (though that may
vary by state), whereas national parks may be deficient in that
regard. Bryce Canyon actually had a "Camp Store," run by
consignment, I imagine, which had showers. A shower was two dollars.
The machines took dollar coins, which I obtained in the camp store. I
didn't know how long the shower would run, but it was more than
enough time needed. There were five or six shower stalls, so there
was no line.
I was at the park during a quiet week, as school
had just started. Half of the tourists seemed to be foreigners, with
half of those being German. I also heard French, Italian, and a few
other languages. Of the Americans, many were retirees.
Also
at the camp store, I bought a bottle of chocolate milk to supplement
my breakfast bars. When I had first planned the trip, six weeks
earlier, I had wanted to visit both Bryce Canyon and Zion National
Parks. However, the campsites could be booked over the Internet, and
the website showed that the Zion campsites were already full. I
decided to book five nights at Bryce Canyon, thinking that perhaps I
could drive over to Zion for a day trip. The website showed that
Bryce Canyon's campsite was also filling up, and I couldn't find one
site available for five nights. The best I could do was to get one
site for one night, and then an adjacent site for four nights.
Check-out was 11:30 and check-in was noon. The people at the adjacent
campsite left early in the morning, and I was wondering if I could
just carry my tent over there without disassembling it, but I didn't
know what to do about the fact that they were expecting no one to be
at that campsite between 11:30 and noon. In the end, I decided that
it would be simple enough to break down the tent, only taking a few
minutes, and reassemble it. So I took it apart, put it in my car, and
prepared to drive off, intending to return later in the day to the
adjacent campsite.
I didn't make it far. I backed the Corolla
out of the driveway of my first campsite, and saw there was a pole
behind me that I didn't want to hit, so I didn't back up too far.
(Since it was a rental car, I wasn't that comfortable with how close
or how far I was from objects.) I then turned the wheel to the left
and put the car into drive. I knew there was a drainage ditch in
front of me, but I thought I cleared it. However, as I started to
creep forward, I felt the car drive onto soft gravel and then quickly
slide into the ditch. An Asian man camping nearby came over and with
the help of another man tried pushing the car out of the ditch, but
it was hopeless. At least the car wasn't at all damaged, just
stuck:
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The Asian man's wife used her cell phone to call
the Park headquarters and reported that there was a car stuck in the
mud. Her children tried correcting her that it was gravel, as this
was a desert environment that had been pretty dry. [In fact, on the
drive down to the Park, I had heard on the radio about forest fires
that were threatening to destroy homes in New Harmony, and the radio
said that residents should be prepared to abandon their homes at a
moment's notice!]
A friendly Park law enforcement ranger
arrived, and asked how I was doing. "Embarrassed," I
answered. He laughed. He confirmed that I would need a tow truck to
extricate the car, and said that at least it was right outside the
park, so it wouldn't take long to arrive or cost much. It took about
a half hour for the driver to arrive. The tow truck driver said that
the Park headquarters had told him that a car was stuck in the mud,
and he thought it was a practical joke. He attached hooks to the
frame of the car and quickly winched it back onto the road. This only
cost me $65.
However, something good came of this incident.
The ranger had said, "Oh, since you're in this campsite, I guess
you reserved online. We don't like that program too much, because we
have to give up a part of the camping fee to the company that has the
website consignment, but the National Park Service makes us
participate. However, we only list about a quarter of our campsites
online." I said, "you mean that you have other campsites
that have vacancies?" "Oh, yes," he answered, "there
are only about four days a year that we totally fill up all our
campsites."
I guessed that the situation was the same at
Zion, and that while I had thought that it was booked, there were
probably many unlisted campsites there that were available. So I
decided that I would spend two days at Bryce and then relocate to
Zion! The campsites at Bryce were only $15/day, so the fact that I
was abandoning the campsite after having paid for two days that I
wouldn't use only meant that I was throwing away $30.
My
rental car free from the clutches of the gravel, I drove a short
distance to Bryce's Sunrise Point, put on my boots and enjoyed what
some have called, "the best three-mile hike in the world,"
hiking down into the canyon on the Queens Garden Trail and back up to
the rim on part of the Navajo Loop Trail.
This is what I
saw:
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I recorded my presence in this beautiful
place.
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In addition to the grand rock formations, there
were also pretty flowers there. Perhaps some botanist will be able to
identify this one for me, and I'll edit my report to include the
name.
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At the bottom of the Queens Garden Trail were
a couple of benches, and while sitting there, a chipmunk came to
visit. They were all over the park. The Parks ask people not to feed
the animals, and make the pitch from several angles. One angle is
that if you feed animals with human food, it will hurt their
digestive system and they will die. Another angle is that if you feed
animals, they will not learn how to forage for food on their own and
will starve to death during the winter months when there are no
tourists. Another pitch the Park makes is that the animals could be
harmful to humans. At Zion, they had a photo of someone's hand with a
few scratches and a number of stitches between two knuckles and other
stitches visible near the webbing of the hand, which they said was
caused by a squirrel. But I hadn't seen that photo yet, nor heard
that rodents can carry a form of plague and Hantavirus, so I watched
with amusement as this chipmunk jumped onto the bench next to me, put
his paws on the leg of the German tourist sitting there, and then ran
across the man's arm.
I didn't see anyone feed any animals,
but I think that it must happen, considering how tame they are, and
some other tourists at this site saw this chipmunk approaching so
closely and said that he must have been fed quite a lot. He later
came to visit me, climbing up my backpack (which was hanging from my
knee as I was sitting on the bench) and sniffing my fingers. My only
complaint was that the fellow wouldn't stand still long enough for me
to get a focused photograph.
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Finally, I decided it was time to continue on,
returning to the rim of the canyon by the Navajo trail. The great
scenery continued:
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A different chipmunk, saying 'hello':
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Another self-portrait, with a hoodoo behind
me, and a balancing rock in the background.
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The Navajo Trail returns to the rim of the
canyon at Sunset Point, where I shot a couple of photos, before
walking along the Rim Trail the short distance back to Sunrise Point,
where I had left the car.
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At some point on the hike, I met a nice older
couple from Arkansas. I also developed a bit of a sunburn. I rarely
use sunscreen, but I decided to reconsider that.
Coming
up next: "Monday
afternoon's hike to Mossy Cave."